Last Day
15/03/08 22:21
A reasonably early start saw me get the ferry across to Point Zero and then catch a bus out to shopping Recife and the supermarket Bon Precio to stock up for the trip to Rio.
By the time I got back to the boat it was very very hot and in the rush to get everything stowed out of the heat I dropped one bag of shopping in the river. It was retrieved with no damage to the contents. Thank goodness for plastic wrapping.
At nightfall the boat was ready for sea. Later at 21:30 I caught a taxi to Chevrolet hall to see Julio.
This was a huge venue where the audience sat at tables of four and were served food and drink until show time. Julio came on at about 22:30 and did his thing for till around 00:30. It was a very professional performance much appreciated by the mainly female audience but I thought it lacked energy. Probably not surprising since he is getting on a bit
The show also included an excellent tango couple.
I thought the doo-wah girls were quite superb.
There were plenty of taxis after the show and after yet another late night trip through Recife running red lights I was back on board by about 01:30.
By the time I got back to the boat it was very very hot and in the rush to get everything stowed out of the heat I dropped one bag of shopping in the river. It was retrieved with no damage to the contents. Thank goodness for plastic wrapping.
At nightfall the boat was ready for sea. Later at 21:30 I caught a taxi to Chevrolet hall to see Julio.
This was a huge venue where the audience sat at tables of four and were served food and drink until show time. Julio came on at about 22:30 and did his thing for till around 00:30. It was a very professional performance much appreciated by the mainly female audience but I thought it lacked energy. Probably not surprising since he is getting on a bit
The show also included an excellent tango couple.
I thought the doo-wah girls were quite superb.
There were plenty of taxis after the show and after yet another late night trip through Recife running red lights I was back on board by about 01:30.
Checkout Day
14/03/08 22:30
By 09:30 I was in the offices of the Policia Federal being issued an exit permit for departure on Sunday. Then on to the other 3 agencies and the whole process was completed in about an hour and a half.
Took a bus out to Shopping Recife to get some cash as there appear to be no banks that accept foreign cards in the centre of Recife.
Then I walked over to the Chinese/Brazilian laundry and picked up my wash. They did a terrific job and even ironed everything including the tea towels.
Spent the rest of the afternoon and evening preparing for departure.
Took a bus out to Shopping Recife to get some cash as there appear to be no banks that accept foreign cards in the centre of Recife.
Then I walked over to the Chinese/Brazilian laundry and picked up my wash. They did a terrific job and even ironed everything including the tea towels.
Spent the rest of the afternoon and evening preparing for departure.
Olinda
13/03/08 22:21
Took the rowboat ferry across to Point Zero and caught a bus to Olinda. The drivers press on and the roads are quite bumpy which makes for a robust ride.
Olinda is about 12 km north of Recife and is a very pretty spot where the process of restoration is much further advanced than in Recife. It is a Unesco world heritage site.
I spent a relaxed couple of hours walking around. It was quite hilly and the high point is called Sé from where there are panoramic views out to sea and south to Recife.
Praca de Abolicao
Rua de São Franciso - going up
Rua de São Franciso - going down
View from Praca de Sé towards Recife.
Rua Bernado Vieira de Melo
Igreja do Carmo from Praca de Sé .
Praca de Sé
Port of Recife seen from Praca de Sé with Boa Viagem in the distance
Rua Bernado Vieira de Melo
Coat of Arms on the ceiling of Monasterio de Sao Bento
Somewhat lurid altar at Monasterio de Sao Bento.
Very tall palms in Praca de Abolicao
Praca de Abolicao
In the middle of Olinda I had lunch in a garden buffet restaurant where one's selection is paid for by weight.
On the way way back I got off the bus at Recife station. A brand new station has been built but the old one has been retained as a small railway museum.
Old station - Recife
Locomotive in the livery of Rede Ferroviária do Nordeste. This was originally an English company before it was nationalised. It has since returned to private Brazilian ownership.
1952 Henschel Locomotive. This company also used to manufacture Panzer tanks and is now owned by Bombardier of Montreal, Canada.
The new station in Recife.
Later in the evening I revisited Spirit Music Hall for some more Forró music.
Olinda is about 12 km north of Recife and is a very pretty spot where the process of restoration is much further advanced than in Recife. It is a Unesco world heritage site.
I spent a relaxed couple of hours walking around. It was quite hilly and the high point is called Sé from where there are panoramic views out to sea and south to Recife.
Praca de Abolicao
Rua de São Franciso - going up
Rua de São Franciso - going down
View from Praca de Sé towards Recife.
Rua Bernado Vieira de Melo
Igreja do Carmo from Praca de Sé .
Praca de Sé
Port of Recife seen from Praca de Sé with Boa Viagem in the distance
Rua Bernado Vieira de Melo
Coat of Arms on the ceiling of Monasterio de Sao Bento
Somewhat lurid altar at Monasterio de Sao Bento.
Very tall palms in Praca de Abolicao
Praca de Abolicao
In the middle of Olinda I had lunch in a garden buffet restaurant where one's selection is paid for by weight.
On the way way back I got off the bus at Recife station. A brand new station has been built but the old one has been retained as a small railway museum.
Old station - Recife
Locomotive in the livery of Rede Ferroviária do Nordeste. This was originally an English company before it was nationalised. It has since returned to private Brazilian ownership.
1952 Henschel Locomotive. This company also used to manufacture Panzer tanks and is now owned by Bombardier of Montreal, Canada.
The new station in Recife.
Later in the evening I revisited Spirit Music Hall for some more Forró music.
Recife
12/03/08 20:21
It was very very hot today without much of a cooling breeze.
I started preparing the boat for departure on sunday morning, weather permitting, and did a little dinghy shuttle with a 20L water container to fill our fresh water tanks of which we only have 100L capacity instead of 150L due to the failure of our newest tank. As a precaution 5 capfuls of Milton were added to the water taken aboard.
In the evening there were more birthday celebrations (471) for Recife and a very large cake had been baked. Locals queued round several blocks to obtain a piece.
Had dinner in a little restaurant in Barrio Recife and lingered to watch some live music where about 8 people took turns to sing accompanied by a large group of musicians.
Then I made another visit to Jardins Bar and Restaurant for some more live music before eventually returning to the boat at 03:30
I started preparing the boat for departure on sunday morning, weather permitting, and did a little dinghy shuttle with a 20L water container to fill our fresh water tanks of which we only have 100L capacity instead of 150L due to the failure of our newest tank. As a precaution 5 capfuls of Milton were added to the water taken aboard.
In the evening there were more birthday celebrations (471) for Recife and a very large cake had been baked. Locals queued round several blocks to obtain a piece.
Had dinner in a little restaurant in Barrio Recife and lingered to watch some live music where about 8 people took turns to sing accompanied by a large group of musicians.
Then I made another visit to Jardins Bar and Restaurant for some more live music before eventually returning to the boat at 03:30
Recife
11/03/08 22:10
Another trip to Chevrolet Hall. This time they had decided to split tables and I got my ticket.
I will be sitting with 3 Brazillians who I will meet on the night. Should be an interesting evening.
For the past few days I have been trying to track down a laundry. In the end I decided to call a taxi and ask to be taken to one. This proved easier said than done. The taxi company wanted a detailed directions to PIC but this was beyond my very limited Portuguese. I asked a young chap who was just leaving the club to give them instructions.
I ended up in a car with this chap still talking to the taxi company and his friend driving. Eventually the phone conversation ended without resolution and costing me £10 in roaming charges even on my special cheap tariff.
These two chaps took me to a laundry themselves and invited me for an early evening drink at a place they liked. This turned out to be the forecourt of a Texaco service station. They sell beer at service stations in Brazil and even provide plastic chairs and tables where it can be drunk before driving away.
Our driver parked his car with the back close to a plastic table and flipped open the hatchback to reveal an array of speakers on an industrial scale. When some tunes were put on the earth did move. There we were sitting drinking beer on a garage forecourt listening to tunes from the in-car entertainment system.
After and hour or so of this they took me back to the boat. Fortunately for our driver drink driving laws do not seem to be strictly enforced here.
I will be sitting with 3 Brazillians who I will meet on the night. Should be an interesting evening.
For the past few days I have been trying to track down a laundry. In the end I decided to call a taxi and ask to be taken to one. This proved easier said than done. The taxi company wanted a detailed directions to PIC but this was beyond my very limited Portuguese. I asked a young chap who was just leaving the club to give them instructions.
I ended up in a car with this chap still talking to the taxi company and his friend driving. Eventually the phone conversation ended without resolution and costing me £10 in roaming charges even on my special cheap tariff.
These two chaps took me to a laundry themselves and invited me for an early evening drink at a place they liked. This turned out to be the forecourt of a Texaco service station. They sell beer at service stations in Brazil and even provide plastic chairs and tables where it can be drunk before driving away.
Our driver parked his car with the back close to a plastic table and flipped open the hatchback to reveal an array of speakers on an industrial scale. When some tunes were put on the earth did move. There we were sitting drinking beer on a garage forecourt listening to tunes from the in-car entertainment system.
After and hour or so of this they took me back to the boat. Fortunately for our driver drink driving laws do not seem to be strictly enforced here.
Recife
10/03/08 22:30
Up the mast again to refit the anemometer. It seems to be working OK but for how long!
The window still leaked overnight. Grrr!
A few errands to run. A couple of days ago my power adaptor for the Mac was kicked and broken in the coffee shop and I needed a replacement. On saturday Julio Iglesias is live in concert at Chevrolet Hall in Recife. I want to go.
A taxi took me to Chevrolet hall where I was informed that individual tickets were not available and that one had to purchase a table ticket seating 4 at R$150 per person. Even Julio is not worth R$600 so I declined but was asked to return tomorrow as they might be able to sort something out. The taxi had waited so we went off to a the local Apple dealer, Tropical Mac, who did not have the plug I wanted. Not a successful trip.
Back at PIC moorings a beautiful 58ft Danish X-Yacht, Northern Star, had arrived and I was invited on board for a drink. Her crew, a danish couple, were 4 years into a circumnavigation.
The window still leaked overnight. Grrr!
A few errands to run. A couple of days ago my power adaptor for the Mac was kicked and broken in the coffee shop and I needed a replacement. On saturday Julio Iglesias is live in concert at Chevrolet Hall in Recife. I want to go.
A taxi took me to Chevrolet hall where I was informed that individual tickets were not available and that one had to purchase a table ticket seating 4 at R$150 per person. Even Julio is not worth R$600 so I declined but was asked to return tomorrow as they might be able to sort something out. The taxi had waited so we went off to a the local Apple dealer, Tropical Mac, who did not have the plug I wanted. Not a successful trip.
Back at PIC moorings a beautiful 58ft Danish X-Yacht, Northern Star, had arrived and I was invited on board for a drink. Her crew, a danish couple, were 4 years into a circumnavigation.
Boat Maintenance
09/03/08 22:07
Time to attend to a few maintenance issues. On the way to Fortaleza our Raymarine (Autohelm) anemometer failed again. I thought it may just have clogged from a mixture of dust and salt picked up off the african coast. Despite frequent rainstorms in Brazil it refused to function.
I fetched it from the top of the mast and close inspection showed that it had seized again having been in use less than two years since the last repair. This is really not good enough and the current range is not backward compatible so a new unit costs in excess of £800.
Raymarine (Autohelm) ST50 Wind
The faulty unit had a buildup of reddish material around the shaft which was seized solid. I gave it a good dose of electrical duck oil and a few hours later the shaft spun freely.
Anemometer Cups
Anemometer unit with seized shaft.
Push fit unit removed from housing.
Since I got this boat in 2005 there had been an intermittent leak from the starboard sealed cabin window. In Brazil, with heavy rain showers, this leak becomes a flow. I applied some sealant to a small hole near the window frame.
I fetched it from the top of the mast and close inspection showed that it had seized again having been in use less than two years since the last repair. This is really not good enough and the current range is not backward compatible so a new unit costs in excess of £800.
Raymarine (Autohelm) ST50 Wind
The faulty unit had a buildup of reddish material around the shaft which was seized solid. I gave it a good dose of electrical duck oil and a few hours later the shaft spun freely.
Anemometer Cups
Anemometer unit with seized shaft.
Push fit unit removed from housing.
Since I got this boat in 2005 there had been an intermittent leak from the starboard sealed cabin window. In Brazil, with heavy rain showers, this leak becomes a flow. I applied some sealant to a small hole near the window frame.
Recife
08/03/08 22:21
Today I visited Shopping Recife, one of the largest shopping malls in Brazil. It could have been anywhere in the western world and was enormous if not particularly interesting.
To get there I caught a city bus costing R$2. The ride was more interesting than the destination as we wandered through Recife. These buses have a turnstile inside the bus where a conductor sits and collects fares as passengers pass through. There was an area where people sat before the turnstile. The purpose of this area was not clear.
Gringos are warned not to catch these buses but I felt safe and saw no signs nastiness.
To get there I caught a city bus costing R$2. The ride was more interesting than the destination as we wandered through Recife. These buses have a turnstile inside the bus where a conductor sits and collects fares as passengers pass through. There was an area where people sat before the turnstile. The purpose of this area was not clear.
Gringos are warned not to catch these buses but I felt safe and saw no signs nastiness.
Recife
07/03/08 22:06
Managed to sleep in this morning and didn't emerge till after 11.
Just up river from our mooring two new 39 story apartment blocks rise from a derelict dock area. The fisherman in the foreground ekes out a living catching small fish from the river.
There are two ways to get from Pernambuco Iate Club to central Recife. One is via taxi the long way round and the other is to walk along the breakwater and catch a water ferry from the sculpture park during daylight hours only.
The skyline and beach at Boa Viagem.
Waterfront on Recife Island. The oldest part of Recife.
Main harbour with Olinda in the background.
Breakwater built on a natural reef with the outer breakwater built on another reef Banco de Ingles.
Iate Club do Pernambuco (PIC)
Breakwater reef at Recife.
Parc des Esculturas by Francisco Brennand.
Renovation near the site of last night's concert.
One old building on Recife island has been restored and now functions as a multi level shopping and restaurant complex. It's main attraction for me was unlimited high speed access for the price of a coffee.
Later back at the yacht club I met some of the members who mentioned that local boats rarely venture north of Natal to Fortaleza because the return passage is so difficult. Ah well, this is what is called local knowledge. Lesson learned. If heading for south america from the Canaries or Cape Verdes make a landfall at Recife and not any ports further north.
I also met the skipper of a Brazilian catamaran who had been in Fortaleza when we were there. He also had a difficult passage round from Fortaleza. He preferred to be called Z and around midnight we went into Recife to watch a local bluses band at Burburinho's bar and comeria.
This was a bit like a university pub and the music was good. Another late night as I got back on board around 04:00.
Just up river from our mooring two new 39 story apartment blocks rise from a derelict dock area. The fisherman in the foreground ekes out a living catching small fish from the river.
There are two ways to get from Pernambuco Iate Club to central Recife. One is via taxi the long way round and the other is to walk along the breakwater and catch a water ferry from the sculpture park during daylight hours only.
The skyline and beach at Boa Viagem.
Waterfront on Recife Island. The oldest part of Recife.
Main harbour with Olinda in the background.
Breakwater built on a natural reef with the outer breakwater built on another reef Banco de Ingles.
Iate Club do Pernambuco (PIC)
Breakwater reef at Recife.
Parc des Esculturas by Francisco Brennand.
Renovation near the site of last night's concert.
One old building on Recife island has been restored and now functions as a multi level shopping and restaurant complex. It's main attraction for me was unlimited high speed access for the price of a coffee.
Later back at the yacht club I met some of the members who mentioned that local boats rarely venture north of Natal to Fortaleza because the return passage is so difficult. Ah well, this is what is called local knowledge. Lesson learned. If heading for south america from the Canaries or Cape Verdes make a landfall at Recife and not any ports further north.
I also met the skipper of a Brazilian catamaran who had been in Fortaleza when we were there. He also had a difficult passage round from Fortaleza. He preferred to be called Z and around midnight we went into Recife to watch a local bluses band at Burburinho's bar and comeria.
This was a bit like a university pub and the music was good. Another late night as I got back on board around 04:00.
Around Recife
06/03/08 22:05
Not much time for sleeping.
Eduardo had offered to assist me with formalities and wanted to leave at 08:00. First stop was the Policia Federal followed by Receita Federal, Ministerio da Saude and finally Capitania dos Portos. The process was completed in about an hour and a half, much quicker than at Fortaleza.
It is the 514th anniversary of the founding of Recife and celebrations were held in the evening in the old town. Firstly actors staged a reconstruction of key events from Recife's history followed by a concert until after midnight.
The colourful state flag of Pernambuco. Recife is the capital of Pernambuco.
Historic play.
This member of the audience of rather his t-shirt intrigued me. Heckler & Koch are suppliers of precision small arms to governments and others around the world but this seemed a very aggresive form of promotion. On checking I found they use one slogan. "Heckler & Koch, No Compromise"
The weapon on the t-shirt looks like an MP5N. I concluded that this was an unofficial t-shirt and odd apparel at a music concert.
Police where in evidence everywhere.
These are Policia Militar who in spite of their name are under the control of the state governor. A bit like american state police. Also in evidence were a few members of the Policia Militar Batalhão de Choque known as "Choque". These are a bit like the CRS in France and not to be messed with.
Their services were not required and so far I have seen no incident requiring police action. Recife is reportedly the most dangerous city in Brazil.
Scenes from the old town on Recife Island.
I had decided to listen to some more Forró music and got a taxi to Spirit Music Hall where Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos were again in concert. Brazil also has no smoking laws in public places but some are allowed to provide a smoking room. Spirit Music Hall had named theirs FumoDromo.
Back on board slightly earlier at 03:45.
Eduardo had offered to assist me with formalities and wanted to leave at 08:00. First stop was the Policia Federal followed by Receita Federal, Ministerio da Saude and finally Capitania dos Portos. The process was completed in about an hour and a half, much quicker than at Fortaleza.
It is the 514th anniversary of the founding of Recife and celebrations were held in the evening in the old town. Firstly actors staged a reconstruction of key events from Recife's history followed by a concert until after midnight.
The colourful state flag of Pernambuco. Recife is the capital of Pernambuco.
Historic play.
This member of the audience of rather his t-shirt intrigued me. Heckler & Koch are suppliers of precision small arms to governments and others around the world but this seemed a very aggresive form of promotion. On checking I found they use one slogan. "Heckler & Koch, No Compromise"
The weapon on the t-shirt looks like an MP5N. I concluded that this was an unofficial t-shirt and odd apparel at a music concert.
Police where in evidence everywhere.
These are Policia Militar who in spite of their name are under the control of the state governor. A bit like american state police. Also in evidence were a few members of the Policia Militar Batalhão de Choque known as "Choque". These are a bit like the CRS in France and not to be messed with.
Their services were not required and so far I have seen no incident requiring police action. Recife is reportedly the most dangerous city in Brazil.
Scenes from the old town on Recife Island.
I had decided to listen to some more Forró music and got a taxi to Spirit Music Hall where Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos were again in concert. Brazil also has no smoking laws in public places but some are allowed to provide a smoking room. Spirit Music Hall had named theirs FumoDromo.
Back on board slightly earlier at 03:45.
Arrival Recife
05/03/08 22:04
At 06:35 we entered Recife harbour. Not particularly stunning visually but a very tranquil and safe haven.
The breakwater on the left is built on a natural reef after which the city is named.
We were bound for the Pernambuco Yacht Club situated a couple of miles into the harbour on the seaward side. When we arrived at 07:I5 I expected to anchor but someone appeared on the club pontoon jumped into a dinghy and came out to direct us to and assist us with picking up a club mooring.
I spent some time squaring the boat away before inflating the dinghy and going ashore for an early lunch. At this point the chap who had assisted with mooring appeared and introduced himself as Eduardo. I had to fill out a form and the mooring would cost R$5 per day. Anything I needed he would do his best to assist.
Rernambuco Yacht Club was founded in 1949 but now has only around 20 members and is undergoing an organisational and structural refurbishment.
Eduardo kindly offered to row me across to Recife Island to have a look around. Recife, which means reef, is a very dfferent proposition to Fortaleza. The old town on Recife island, one of three on which the town is built, includes a large number of colonial buildings many of which have been restored or are being restored.
I called at a very helpful tourist office and was provided with event listings and detailed maps. There seems to be a lot going on.
Eduardo returned to collect me and I returned to the boat for a few hours before venturing out to sample some Brazilian music. Here most live music starts around midnight.
I got a taxi to Jardins Bar e Restaurante just after midnight. Many people eat at the restaurant and stay on for the music. Entertainment was provided by the Forró band Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos. Forró music has it's origins in the north east of Brazil and I really liked it.
Forró dancing is something to behold. The couples legs intertwine and with a close or slightly more distant embrace (depending on how well they know each other?) this posture is maintained throughout the dance as they move about with absolute precision. If it sounds complicated it certainly looked it.
After two and a half non stop hours of music it was time to leave. I've noticed that in Brazil most money changes hands at the cashier. At Jardins guests were issued with a swipe card which bar staff used to record any drinks ordered. Then when one leaves payment is made to the cashier and door staff then check the swipe card to ensure nothing is owed before allowing departure. After the show the cashiers queue was over 30 min long.
I finally got back on board just after 04:00
The breakwater on the left is built on a natural reef after which the city is named.
We were bound for the Pernambuco Yacht Club situated a couple of miles into the harbour on the seaward side. When we arrived at 07:I5 I expected to anchor but someone appeared on the club pontoon jumped into a dinghy and came out to direct us to and assist us with picking up a club mooring.
I spent some time squaring the boat away before inflating the dinghy and going ashore for an early lunch. At this point the chap who had assisted with mooring appeared and introduced himself as Eduardo. I had to fill out a form and the mooring would cost R$5 per day. Anything I needed he would do his best to assist.
Rernambuco Yacht Club was founded in 1949 but now has only around 20 members and is undergoing an organisational and structural refurbishment.
Eduardo kindly offered to row me across to Recife Island to have a look around. Recife, which means reef, is a very dfferent proposition to Fortaleza. The old town on Recife island, one of three on which the town is built, includes a large number of colonial buildings many of which have been restored or are being restored.
I called at a very helpful tourist office and was provided with event listings and detailed maps. There seems to be a lot going on.
Eduardo returned to collect me and I returned to the boat for a few hours before venturing out to sample some Brazilian music. Here most live music starts around midnight.
I got a taxi to Jardins Bar e Restaurante just after midnight. Many people eat at the restaurant and stay on for the music. Entertainment was provided by the Forró band Geraldinho Lins e Os Matutos. Forró music has it's origins in the north east of Brazil and I really liked it.
Forró dancing is something to behold. The couples legs intertwine and with a close or slightly more distant embrace (depending on how well they know each other?) this posture is maintained throughout the dance as they move about with absolute precision. If it sounds complicated it certainly looked it.
After two and a half non stop hours of music it was time to leave. I've noticed that in Brazil most money changes hands at the cashier. At Jardins guests were issued with a swipe card which bar staff used to record any drinks ordered. Then when one leaves payment is made to the cashier and door staff then check the swipe card to ensure nothing is owed before allowing departure. After the show the cashiers queue was over 30 min long.
I finally got back on board just after 04:00